ImagineCreate3D
1970-76 914 Nearly Plug and Play Fully Sequential Fuel and Ignition System. (MS3 PRO Mini)
1970-76 914 Nearly Plug and Play Fully Sequential Fuel and Ignition System. (MS3 PRO Mini)
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By default this kit comes with a cable for connecting the ECU to the laptop for diagnostics and tuning. This works well if you just want to tune the car and forget about it.
The Wifi + Bluetooth option adds a module to the ECU that allows you to connect the ECU to a laptop, tablet, screen or phone without using the cable. You can do tuning, digital dashes, gauges etc. Or it can just be very handy for quick diagnosis and monitoring without hanging a cable across the car.
All kits will be made to order, at least at first. Please expect 4-6 weeks for all the pieces to be ordered, received, assembled and then shipped. If there are delays for any reason I will notify you by your order email. And if I can get it out sooner I will.
Initial Release V2:
Yellow car is a factory 73 2.0 running on the included base tune. It is using the current V2 of the system with an idle air control valve added to replace the factory Auxiliary Air Regulator (AAR). This allows for much better control over warm up idle, restarts and even allows an automatic idle up function if the cylinder head temps start getting too high. It includes a new mount that mounts in the same location as the factory AAR and adapter elbows to utilize the factory vacuum line diameter. The driving video is intended to show driving at different RPMs and loads to show the engine is happy and smooth at any RPM and very consistent. I apologize for the poor one arm driving in advance.
Initial Prototype V1:
Green car is my factory 72 1.7. It is running the first prototype of the system in these video clips and still utilizing the factory AAR. It mostly worked fine, unless the car sat for 45-90min as the AAR temp and engine temp would not be in sync and the idle would hunt for 30-60 seconds until they got back in sync. If started earlier or later it worked normally. I drove this car every day it didn't rain this past summer 2024. I didn't have to do anything but change the oil and set the valves.
Description:
I designed this kit for my own car. My goals were no permanent modifications to the car or it's wiring, better cold starts, better idling, better driving behavior, more accurate fuel mixtures, adjustability for different engine sizes and ages (timing, fueling, rev limits, cams, big bore etc.), no distributors, no points, less vacuum lines, easily sourced affordable replacement parts and to look as stock as I could possibly make it. The result is this kit requires no modification or splicing to the cars factory wiring, the wiring harness takes the place of the fuel injection harness. The ECU mounts in the factory location with the factory bracket. Coils mount to where the factory Coil mounts. Idle Valve mounts to where the factory Auxiliary Air Valve mounts etc. The kit utilizes the factory screws, hold downs etc. There are no holes or permanent modification; it is fully reversible. It allows the use of both factory low impedance injectors as well as modern high impedance injectors simply by swapping 2 plugs in the new ECU Box. By default the kit comes setup for the factory low impedance injectors. There are 2 modifications to the car that are required. One is the tachometer. Second is a weld-in wideband O2 sensor on the exhaust. The rest of the kit is plug and play. The harness has every connector labelled and the instruction manual has instructions on how to set sensor distances and base timing with lots of pictures.
- If you have a later model tachometer (Black Dial) in your car, no modification is required, just plug in the system and it will work.
- If you have a early model tachometer (Silver Dial) in your car, you have 3 options:
- Swap in a late model Tach.
- Open your Tach and add one wire. (there is a guide with pictures in the instruction manual)
- Buy and Install a Tach Adapter.
Features:
- System is capable of running any displacement type 4. The base tune will need to be modified for non-stock engine displacements but will provide a really good starting point.
- Fully sequential fuel and ignition enables smoother idle, smoother running, less emissions and better fuel economy, especially at low RPM. I’m told it feels faster, I’m not sure if it’s just from the smoothness or if it actually has a bit more power, I do not have a Dyno. Top speed I got out of my 1.7 was 118mph according to the factory speedometer. Individual ignition enables stronger spark at high RPM with less load on the battery and alternator as you're not wasting spark and each coil has more time to charge between firing events.
- Magnetic Crank and Cam pickup, no springs or weights to wear out, no points, no caps, no rotors. It’s basically solid state, it works exactly as it did the first time, or it doesn’t work at all.
- Cylinder head temps are lower, due to more precise fuel and spark control. Properly tuned it is capable of no misfires, no stumbles and no detonation. Running slightly richer overall, but making up the fuel economy with overrun fuel cut, that turns the fuel off when you’re coasting in gear foot off throttle. This past summer 2024, I put 8000 Miles on my 72 1.7. I was getting just under 200 kilometers (120 miles) to a quarter tank. It idled between 280-310F and would drive between 320-365F on a 32C (89.6F) day. Even below 3000RPM. The only time it would climb higher is by intentionally lugging the engine in 4th or 5th up a hill with high load. This assumes all engine tin and its many seals and grommets are in place, sealed and in good condition. For example, just by leaving the cabin heater fan pipes disconnected from the engine tin, idle temps will jump from 280-310F to 360-380F. There is a safety I have put in place at 380F, the car will automatically idle up around 1100RPM until the cylinder head temperature comes down below 365F.
- Engine diagnoses and limp mode functionality. If your car has an issue and is running poorly, you can plug in the laptop (or tablet, phone etc. with the Optional Bluetooth and Wifi module). You can look at the sensor values on the laptop or take a log which will capture the data from each and every sensor, helping you quickly isolate which one is causing the issue. In the event of a critical sensor failure, it will limit RPM to 3500RPM until the the car is turned off so you can try to limp it to safety.
- Wideband O2 sensor constantly monitors the air fuel ratio. It will adjust fuel +15% or -15%. Very useful for keeping everything happy when electrical loads are added to the system, like lights, heaters etc. Also will compensate a bit as your fuel filter ages. (A bit of added piece of mind.)
- Long term fuel trim learning is enabled. The car will monitor itself for repeat problem areas in the tune; it will try to identify and correct that spot, so it doesn’t need to see the error to correct it in the future. This will keep your engine running smooth as things age.
- Adjustable progressive rev limiter, it will slowly pull fuel and spark from one cylinder at a time to keep the car from exceeding the RPM limit, with this active you will usually not feel a hard limit, the car simply won’t rev higher. In the base tune this is set to start at 5400 RPM, but can be adjusted.
- Flexibility – Use any low impedance D Jet or J Jet style Injectors just by swapping injector size settings in the ECU. Use modern EV1 high impedance injectors without wiring, just open the new ECU Box, swap the 2 plugs around and set the new injectors size and dead time in the tune. You may need an aftermarket fuel rail depending on the injector design.
- Use any stock 914 or EV1 style Intake Air Temp Sensor, either the same size and thread, or with an adapter. Just measure the resistance at 3 different temperatures, add that data to the ECU.
- Built in Barometer and onboard 4bar map sensor work together to adjust fuel for altitude automatically.
- 4bar map sensor is capable of reading up to 44psi of boost for any turbo or supercharger applications.
- Flood clear mode, if the engine ever becomes flooded, you can hold the gas pedal to the floor and it will cut power to the injectors while cranking.
- Fuel pump turns on when turning the ignition to the run position, then turns off after 2 seconds if the car is not started.
- Wideband does not turn on until the engine is running to prevent wideband O2 sensor damage when leaving the ignition in the run position without starting the car for extended periods of time.
Kit Includes:
- Factory Inspired ECU case (factory rubber idle mixture cover fits) with MS3 PRO MINI inside, along with the optional resistors for the factory injectors.
- Factory Inspired Fully Labelled Plug and Play Fuel Injection and Ignition Harness. (tested before shipping out)
- Dubshop Type 4 Crank Trigger Kit.
- Dubshop Type 4 Head Temp Sensor.
- CB Performance Cam Sync Sensor.
- 4 NGK LS2 Coils.
- LS2 Coil Mount utilizing factory coil mount holes.
- 4 NGK Spark Plugs.
- Pre-assembled and cut to length NGK Spark Plug Wires for LS2 Coils with grommets that clip into the engine tin. (a bit tough to get in but needed so the fan doesn't blow them out.)
- Bosch Throttle Position Sensor.
- TPS Adapter for Bosch TPS to 914 Throttle body.
- Modern Idle Air Control Valve.
- AAR to IAC Adapter Mount.
- Adapter Elbow Outlets for IAC to fit Factory Diameter vacuum lines, 2 90 degree, 1 45 Degree.
- AEM X series CanBus inline Wideband O2 Controller kit.
- Vacuum Caps, 2 For Throttle Body. 1 For 2.0 Cold Start Valve, 2 For Intake Plenum.
- ECU Documentation and serial number for registration.
- Map sensor vacuum line.
- ECU Serial to USB adapter.
- Pre-loaded Base Tune.
- Full Instruction and Setup Guide with Pictures, physical and digital copies.
- *Optional Bluetooth + Wifi Module to connect to laptop, tablet or phone without cables.
Kit Removes:
- Factory Coil.
- Factory Spark Plugs.
- Factory Spark Plug Wires.
- Factory Distributer.
- Factory Throttle Position Sensor.
- Factory ECU.
- Factory Fuel Injection Harness.
- Distributor, advance and retard vacuum lines.
- Factory Manifold Pressure Sensor and its vacuum lines.
- Factory Decel Valve and its vacuum lines.
- Factory A/C Spacer behind Engine Cooling Fan.
- Factory Auxiliary Air Regulator Valve, reuse vacuum lines for new Idle control valve with included adapters.
- *Optional, Cold Start Injector, it’s no longer used.
You Will Need:
- Factory ECU Mount.
- Factory Distributor hold-down.
- Factory Fuel Injectors and Fuel Rails OR High Impedance Injectors with required Fuel Rails.
- Fuel Pressure Regulator.
- Factory Intake Air Temp Sensor OR EV1 style Air Temp Sensor with an adapter.
- Assorted factory length vacuum lines new or old if in good condition.
- The "Cheese-head" screws from your coil mount and AAR valve.
- The Factory Throttle Position Sensor screws.
- Factory Style Throttle Body.
- A Factory Head Temp Sensor, or same size and thread bolt.
- Engine tin and seals installed properly and in place.
- Blue locktite.
- Timing Light.
- Calipers.
- Basic tools to remove the engine and install the crank sensor.
- A laptop to set base timing and verify everything is working correctly.
Disclaimer:
By purchasing this kit you are agreeing that this kit is provided at your own risk. The base tune is intended to vastly speed up your engine tuning process, it is not a end stop solution. These cars are 50 years old, with engines of different sizes in different levels of condition. For the safety of your engine it is required to get a professional to look over the tune either with a dyno session or a remote tuning session. The timing by default is set to the conservative end of factory specifications including vacuum advance. Remember if changing timing it will change your required air/fuel mixture. If you would like to tune for max power, I recommend a dyno tune. I believe there are a few degrees of timing at low and high load available but I do not have a dyno. Likewise, there are no safeties in the ECU settings. If you play around with settings and accidently command 100 degrees of timing, you will get it. Same with fuel which could potentially hydro lock your engine, or any of the other settings. Please read the ECU manual before playing around at the very least. MS3 PRO Mini Manual
The ECU Box, Adapters, Clips, Grommets and Mounts are 3D printed out of industrial materials that are more than capable of doing their job. That said, they may come with minor visual defects due to the 3D printing process. If you have reason to believe your car will require material more temperature resistant, please contact me. I can double the current heat resistance with more exotic material, but this increases the price and for the majority of people is unnecessary. (It is also only available in black.)
My Testimony:
I drove my green 72 1.7 914 with this system for the summer of 2024. 8000 miles, every day that wasn’t raining. It never skipped a beat, I did nothing but change the oil and set the valves. The car never really got hot, doesn’t even do the ting ting ting sound after driving it hard and turning it off as it cools down. Everyone that I have had the chance of showing the car was initially skeptical up until they heard it idle. They have all been amazed with how smooth it is. It will effortlessly stay at 80-90mph with around 10-15% throttle input. You don’t have to play with it to get it to start, you don’t have to deal with surging idles, hiccups, stumbles. It’s just smooth and happy from 1500rpm to redline. My favorite comment so far “You can just drive it like a normal car.”